In a sense, the ability to achieve snowflake inlays proves the strength of the brand’s jewelry inlays to a certain extent. At this year’s Basel Watch Fair, Hermes took out many masterpieces in one breath. Whether it is enamel or hollow, they are outstanding and show their superb watchmaking strength. One of them was a jewellery watch with snowflakes, which also shocked the four. The entire dial, barrel-shaped case, and signature ‘anchor chain’ lugs are pavé-set with diamonds, as beautiful as ice crystals.
    Snow Mosaic (Snow Set) is not a snowflake-shaped mosaic, but a vague title. That is, the inlayer will select diamonds of different diameters and set them on the case. The arrangement of large and small diamonds is irregular, and it is entirely dependent on the skilled skills and meticulous thinking of the inlaying division to ensure that the large and small diamonds can be spread side by side. To complete such a work, we first need to choose the appropriate size from many diamonds of different diameters. The choice of diameter gradient must also be taken care of. Do the design and planning before setting, and complete the ingenious layout. It is not something that a general mosaic expert can do. And the moment of real mosaic is exactly the moment when the extraordinary talents of the mosaic artist emerge …
The value of snowflake mosaics:
1: manual value:
    With the popularity of batch mechanized production technology, pure manual work is particularly valuable. Because of the randomness and uncertainty of snowflake inlays, not all craftsmen are competent, so the finished product is valuable.
2: Artistic value:
    Diamonds of all sizes are set flat on metal. Under the sun’s rays, diamonds shine like snowflakes in the sun.
The disadvantages of snowflake mosaic:
1: The working cycle is too long:
    Snowflake setting requires meticulous layout and pure manual operation. It is a difficult jewelry setting process, so the production cycle is quite long. It can be said that snowflake mosaic itself belongs to the category of advanced customization.
2: Diamond unit price is low:
    Taking Jaeger-LeCoultre’s snowflake mosaic table as an example, diamonds ranging in size from 0.5 to 1.6 mm will be selected, so compared with dense setting, there are relatively more small-sized diamonds in the same area. However, craftsmanship alone is enough to earn back fares.
The difference between snowflake and pavé
Common points:
1: Many round diamonds are used. Each diamond is independently set on the metal and arranged on a flat surface with each other.
2: None of them are concealed inlays, and there is a metal separation between each diamond.
difference:
1: The size of a single diamond is different. Pavement is an orderly setting of diamonds of the same diameter. Snowflake setting is a random setting of diamonds of different sizes, but both can eventually form a flat surface.
2: Relatively regular pavé, which can be mass-produced through calculations. Snowflake mosaics, due to the irregular size of diamonds, mostly require the meticulous thinking, design and inlaying of individual jewelers in the process.

Read More »

In 2016, large pilot watches also impressed watch fans with their iconic clear design and modern craftsmanship. On the black dial, the designer brought the triangle logo and the number ‘9’ back to their intended position. In pilot chronograph watches, IWC designers have abandoned the triple date display and small numbers on the outer minute circle.

   In 2016, IWC celebrated the 80th anniversary of the production of pilot watches-in 1936, the watch factory launched the first ‘watch specially made for pilots’. This is the beginning of a passionate link between IWC and the pilot theme. Only four years later, the first large pilot watch (also known as B-Uhr in German), a large pilot watch (52 T.S.C.), followed closely, and became the model for all pilot watches. This 55 mm diameter watch is huge and can be worn outside of a flight suit thanks to the extended strap. The dial is designed in black with radium-plated large luminous Arabic numerals, and line scales for minutes and seconds. Luminescent material for propeller hands and central seconds. The large triangular logo with dot marks on both ends is now a typical design feature of pilot watches, and this time it is placed at the ’12 o’clock’ position under the minute circle. In 2002, IWC regained the tradition of large-scale pilot watches. Designers reintegrated the triangle logo into the minute circle and omitted the number ‘9’.

   In the new series of 2016, IWC returns to the tradition of large pilot watches, giving the classic pilot design to the large pilot watches (model: IW500912): the triangle logo is placed under the minute circle to assist this reading time The logo gives more weight and the number ‘9’ returns to its intended position. In addition, the numbers are slightly bolder, and the five-minute scale becomes slimmer. The entire timepiece functions more harmoniously and is strikingly similar to the original 1940 model. The large pilot’s watch has a classic cockpit style, inspired by the design of the 1940s, and was a navigation aid for pilots. The dashboard is characterized by its simplicity and readability. A typical example is the cockpit of the Junker Ju 52 aircraft. This legendary aircraft is engraved as the back of a large pilot’s watch, reminiscent of a flying myth. This myth continues in the current pilot watch collection. The Santoni strap is crafted in black calfskin and complements this watch perfectly. For the first time in this large pilot watch, IWC uses the calfskin strap of this famous shoe manufacturer.

   IWC’s self-made 51111 calibre fusion watchmaking process. The spring-loaded oscillating weight and Pellerton pawl winding system provide a power reserve of more than 7 days in the shortest time; the power reserve display at the ‘3 o’clock’ position indicates the time remaining before the movement stops. The large pilot’s watch features a date display at the “6 o’clock” position, and the central seconds hand, which is essential for flight use-the original large pilot watch (52 TSC model) even incorporates the central seconds hand into its watch name-‘Seconde Centrale ‘(SC). The 46mm case with a water resistance of 6 bar contains a soft iron inner case to ensure that the movement is not affected by magnetic fields. In addition, the large pilot watch has a unique conical crown, reminiscent of the era of flying pioneers. At that time, the pilot had to wear gloves to adjust the watch and wind it in an unheated or open cockpit.
Chronograph to abandon triple date display

IW377709

IW377710

   The pilot’s chronograph watch (model: IW377709 / IW377710) adopted a single weekly digital date display in 2016, and the designers decided to abandon the triple date display. The small five-minute numbers on the outer minute circle are also omitted. The reason is simple: IWC wants to reinvent the character of classic pilot watches on the dial-clarity, ensuring legibility in all light conditions.

   Equipped with a rugged 79320 chronograph movement, the watch can record up to 12 hours of segmentation and accumulated chronological time. Its soft iron inner shell is resistant to external magnetic fields. Pilot chronographs with a water resistance of 6 bar are available with either a Santoni calfskin strap (model: IW377709) or a newly designed elegant stainless steel bracelet (model: IW377710). In addition, pilot chronograph models can now be paired with a two-tone fabric strap inspired by the historic Nato strap.
For more details, please click on the watch live event in Geneva:

Read More »