Major brands have stepped into the sports field in order to prove their mature technology, strong technical background, and cool sports watches are also attracting you and me.
Parmigiani Bugatti Super Sport Watch
激情 Passion for a born sports car Parmigiani Bugatti Super Sport Watch
The Parmigiani watch has always been closely associated with sports cars. This watch has successfully developed a 90-degree time setting system by integrating a double pinion system and a bevel gear transmission-the dial crosses the axis perpendicularly.
In order to match the shape, the hand-wound Calibre Parmigiani 372 movement has a double-sided design. Through 6 pieces of crystal glass, you can clearly see the 337 movement parts in the watch and the hour hand of the watch. The minute and minute hands are made of carbon fiber as a tribute to the Bugatti Veyron 16.4 supercar. The elastic crown is located directly above the watch’s outer profile. It creates a harmonious dynamic line of the watch. Just tap the crown, it will pop out from the case, so you can set the time.

What to watch: Tribute to the Bugatti Veyron 16.4 supercar
RICHARD MILLE RM 038 Tourbillon BUBBA WATSON Watch
Stable and accurate RICHARD MILLE RM 038 Tourbillon BUBBA WATSON watch

RM 038 Tourbillon The movement mounted in the case, with 19 jewel bearings. The bottom plate, plywood, and balance plywood are made of a grade 5 titanium alloy, creating excellent solidity and surface flatness.
The tourbillon movement has a fast-rotating barrel, which significantly reduces the periodic adhesion of the mainspring. In addition, the barrel’s teeth and a third pinion with a central spiral shape help the gear to be more efficient. The ground rotation motion can offset the meshing deviation of the running gear, thereby ensuring good torque transmission. The case is made of magnesium aluminum alloy. This alloy is composed of 90% magnesium and 8.9% aluminum. After processing, it needs to be treated with ion oxidation to strengthen the hardness and scratch resistance of the alloy. The case uses 12 pieces. Grade 5 titanium alloy spline screws and wear-resistant 316L stainless steel washers are assembled to maintain the watch’s overall toughness.

What to watch: Designed for golfers, lightweight, shock-resistant and comfortable.
的 Ups and Downs Zenith El Primero Jean-Louis Etienne Watch

Austrian skydiving champion Felix Bougart jumped in the stratosphere above 36.5 kilometers above sea level (four times the altitude of a civil aircraft), setting four world records: the highest manned balloon flight, the highest altitude vacuum skydiving, Free fall at the longest distance, break through the sound barrier with the human body.
As the first watch to break through the sound barrier, its timekeeping is accurate to a tenth of a second. The movement developed by Jean-Louis Etienne is the only mechanical movement that can display to a tenth of a second. (And this watch even followed this explorer to fly over the Arctic Ocean and withstood the most stringent reliability tests.) The ruthenium metal white on the surface of the watch symbolizes what the Eskimos call ‘white night’, which is the time when the sun will never sink in the year ; Deep black represents the dark and polar night. The curved glass can absorb more light, making the hands, the three small dials and the dial shiny. Watches with fluorescent treatment can read the time clearly even in low light conditions.

What to see: Break the sound barrier with the human body

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A little bit of starry sky in the dark is the inspiration point for the literati and inks in ancient times. In modern times, the designers of Yongying Audemars Piguet have also been inspired to embed stars and shooting stars in watches. Inside, let time slowly spin out a flower in the shape of an ellipse. This is the latest millennial series launched by Yongyinghui Audemars Piguet. It has quickly won the favor of high-end people with its gorgeous and connotative design.

 The oval or white gold case with full or partial diamonds gently supports the eccentric dial on the right, like a dark blue night sky, dotted with stars. Five star-studded diamond-marked stars reflect the beautiful blue large Arabic numerals. To celebrate the rebirth of the day, the Millennium Star Series also offers a watch with a rose gold diamond case set against a white dial. The night sky and the crescent moon disappeared, replaced by the brilliant brilliance of natural mother-of-pearl. The eccentric dial is embellished with beautiful large Arabic and Roman numerals. The moon phase display window is still floating on the dense clouds, but the meteor turns into a thin snow grass, the flower heart is inlaid with a small diamond; a radiant sun disk is in the center of the date display disk. The watch is carefully matched with a white matte satin strap and a double-bucked rose gold buckle with diamonds.

 In order to pay tribute to the watchmaker and to the noble women who appreciate the exquisite beauty of the watch movement, the Millennium Star Series is specially equipped with the Audemars Piguet Cal. 3120 automatic winding movement and gives it more The complex functions have become 3123/3908 movements with power reserve display and moon phase display. This movement has the following three distinctive features: firstly, the central second hand directly driven, which eliminates the power loss caused by the friction of the transmission gear; secondly, the horizontal pair of horizontal balance plate ensures the stability and reliability of the balance wheel. The 22K gold automatic disc mounted on the ceramic ball bearing maintains an accurate and reliable two-way automatic winding function. The movement is visible on the back of the transparent sapphire cover, and the full diamond version surrounds the transparent sapphire bottom cover with two diamonds for half a month.

 Excellence is one of the most prominent characteristics of the Wing Ying Audemars Piguet millennial series. From this, we can also see the humanized design concept of Wing Ying Audemars Piguet watches, and carved Audemars and two The family crest logo of the family surprises those who own this watch.

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‘North’ has never been more than just the North. It is connected to the unknown, exploration and courage. Taking ‘North Bei’ as an opportunity and ‘North’ as the starting point, Jaeger-LeCoultre invited Jing Bairan to work with Han Han. Began a journey about life and exploration, ‘All the Way North’ is the answer they gave us.

 Produced by Han Han and starred by Jing Bairan, the three series of ‘Neverway to the North’ series of short films are based on ‘Exploring / Exploration’, ‘Story / Entering’, and ‘Insistence / Persistence’ as chapters. From three different sides, pay tribute and Jaeger-LeCoultre. A series of adventures that resonate with every second.

 The first short film ‘Exploring / Exploring’ from ‘All the Way to the North’ reveals that exploring forward is always the only direction in life and the never-ending adventure spirit of the Beibei series. Every action man must be inseparable from his wrist, encouraging them to explore forward.

 The second short film ‘Story / Into the Micro’ of ‘All the Way to the North’ tells us that all the exploration process will enrich life; every quest before the screen brings every viewer into the thinking about the direction of life exploration .

 The chapter ‘Insistence’ at the end of ‘All the Way to the North’ shows from a greater time perspective that it is always human nature to remain curious about the unknown. Jing Bairan’s full-fledged interpretation ended the journey north. The journey has an end, but the heart of exploration will always shine.

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Swiss plum watch master series 2013 new image photo (Image source: TITONI)
Dual time zone power reserve men’s watch

 TITONI launched a new series of the Master Series after the Basel Watch Show, adding a new charm to the flagship of the Torx watch. Swiss plum watch for the first time in the master series to display the function of dual time (Dual Time), in keeping with the traditional concept of traditional watchmaking, emphasizing ‘maintain the value of traditional timepieces classic and bold pursuit of innovation’ .

 The newly launched Master Series Dual Time Zone Power Reserve Men’s Watch contains many striking features on the dial alone: ​​the simple and extraordinary Geneva inscription in the center of the dial and the beautiful and elegant Roman numeral time scale on the outer ring complement each other , Showing a low-key and simple elegance, more successfully highlighting the time and power reserve display windows in both places, the design reveals elegant style. The second time zone hour hand at 6 o’clock and the date display window at 3 o’clock remind the wearer of important daily trips. The power reserve display echoing the second time zone hour hand is clear at a glance, and the outer circle of the dial is designed with a slight tilt to expand the visual effect of the entire dial, making the overall shape full of three-dimensional and hierarchical visual beauty, exposing elegant style and Fashionable aesthetics for the wrist.
Whether paired with a black leather strap style (94982 S-ST-387) or a silver stainless steel bracelet style (94982 S-387), these two new master series watches have successfully made their appearance more distinctive. Great taste. At the same time, watch enthusiasts can enjoy the beauty of meticulous craftsmanship and the beautiful swing of the movement certified by the Swiss Official Observatory’s Precision Chronometer Test (COSC) through the transparent sapphire glass back cover.

 Swiss plum watch has a history of nearly 100 years. It is a rare independent family watchmaking company. It is famous for its ‘precision, reliable, durable’ quality and reputation. The brand emphasizes the classic beauty of traditional timepieces and boldly pursues innovation. In the image of the new master series, the protagonist has a vibrant and fashionable appearance, which expresses the unique value of the master series to the fullest. This is the most perfect performance of watchmaking craftsmanship, and it is designed to meet those who appreciate the clever design and accurate timepieces. These characteristics are also the important cornerstones of this Swiss family-owned company since its inception.
◎ TITONI service hotline: 02-7716-8807
◎ TITONI website: www.watch-readily.com.tw
◎ Taichung Jindian Shopping Center, 1st Floor, No. 1049 Jianxing Road, West District, Taichung City (04) 2320-3100

Suggested selling price NTD130,100 (Image source: TITONI)

Swiss Torx Master Series Dual Time Zone Power Reserve Men’s Watch (94982 S-387) Recommended Price NTD131,800 (Image Source: TITONI)

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This dynamic chronograph with classic world time function, the dial scale can be rotated freely. The watch’s overall material selection and design inspiration are derived from the world’s most important motorcycle championship-MotoGP competition with Tissot as the official designated timing, which can definitely make each wearer look full of passion for motorcycle sports, among the crowd Looks extraordinary.
Tissot Racing Series Grand Prix Limited Edition
The latest motorcycle mechanical elements just show the unique personality of the limited edition of the 2010 racing series. The ultra-light carbon fiber material used in the MotoGP racing disc brakes on the dial is reminiscent of the fierce heat of the competition. The strap is made of black rubber, which resembles motorcycle tires. People can’t help but sigh that the MotoGP race is so unpredictable, but it is also exciting. In order to highlight its heritage of motorcycle sports, this watch is engraved with ‘T-Race’ on the side, and ‘Tissot’ is engraved on the brake disc-style cover. The bezel uses a world time scale, which will be of great help to MotoGP fans who will follow their idols in 15 games in 2010, whether they will be present at the scene or waiting in front of the screen. The box of this watch is also designed as a motorcycle helmet, with a set of realistic motorcycle handles, making people want to try out the upcoming season.
Technical Parameters

Mirror: scratch-resistant sapphire crystal with magnified calendar window

Bezel: rotating bezel with world time function

Case: 316L stainless steel case with screen-printed glass case back

Dial: Carbon fiber dial

Bracelet: Black rubber strap

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In 1927, Rolex did a surprising thing: the release of the first waterproof watch truly suitable for daily wear. The waterproofing strategy applied to this watch is very different from other companies’ early attempts, but it is not abnormal in visual and tactile sense. Experienced Rolex enthusiasts may have realized that what they just mentioned was the game-changer of historic significance: the first Rolex Oyster.

   In 1927, it has been 89 years. However, the mark on the watch tells us that it is one year older. That’s right, in October 1927, the famous British swimmer Mercedes Gleitze successfully crossed the English Channel wearing a Rolex Oyster watch. But in fact, as early as 1926, the Oyster-like idea and prototype had already appeared. The prototype table shown in the picture with this article is now in its infancy. On such a commemorative day, many details about what the oyster is, why and how are worth exploring.
   Hans Wilsdorf, founder of Rolex, has never been a watchmaker. In all legal documents, he defined his profession as ‘merchant’, that is, a person engaged in trading. It’s important to understand this, because for more than fifty years after Hans Wilsdorf has been in charge of the company, Rolex did not make its own watches like it does today. Rather, Rolex only assembled watches. The movement is purchased from one manufacturer, the case is purchased from another manufacturer, as are the dials, bracelets and other components. Hans Wilsdorf’s talent is natural, insight into business opportunities, find gaps in the market, and Rolex can use this as a guide to always assemble something special. Now we call Hans Wilsdorf a marketing genius, and the Rolex Oyster story is a perfect example.

Rolex-Mercedes Gleitze Poster
   The fierce battle in World War I proved the advantages of watches over pocket watches, and Rolex was one of the first manufacturers to profit from them. But in the following years, the watch users also complained: First, the watch is not as accurate as the old pocket watch; second, the oil is blocked by dust, or the movement is stopped due to water ingress. Compared with the pocket watch, After-sales maintenance is more frequent.

   The first problem is foreseeable, because a smaller movement means a smaller balance wheel. To correct buyer prejudice, Hans Wilsdorf tried to send the watch to Swiss and British correction laboratories for testing to prove its accuracy. This practice has continued to this day. Today, Rolex is the brand with the largest number of COSC-certified astronomical watches.
   The second problem is more difficult to solve, although many attempts have been made to prevent the intrusion of dust and water. For example, in the Victorian era, the winding crowns of pocket watches used by explorers were equipped with screw-in waterproof caps, which were connected to the case by a chain. This system is very clumsy, the winding crown must be small enough to fit the waterproof cap (By the way, in the 1990s Cartier retro-styled this design in the Pasha series).

Waterproof case with screw-down case back, crown and bezel
   In the early 1920s, attempts to waterproof watches were to make ‘hermetic’ watches by wrapping the entire watch in a second case. When you need to wind or adjust, loosen the bezel and take out the entire watch. The case is mostly made of gold and silver, so there are two main problems with this design. Gold and silver are soft in texture, and the threads and bezel will be worn by repeated tightening and loosening every day. When the threads are worn, the watch is no longer waterproof; the bezel is worn, and it becomes difficult to loosen it.

   Attentive readers may have noticed that the focus of both of these early attempts was on protecting the crown. The crown is the most obvious entry point for dust and water vapor. The solution we need is to lock the crown to make it waterproof. In May 1926, the footsteps of fate came.

   Hans Wilsdorf used to browse the Swiss Patent Register and select entries that could be used. Code 114948 fit this definition. At La Chaux-de-Fonds, Paul Perregaux and Georges Peret devised a crown waterproofing system that was screwed onto the protruding solenoid of the case. The crown is in the normal position, which is not subject to the restrictions of the waterproof cap and the second case. It is easy to use and easier to sell. Hans Wilsdorf purchased the patent at the right time. In just a few months, the Rolex Oyster was officially launched.
   The above is recognized history, and recent research results have made this history more detailed. In 2010, watch historian David Boettcher published an article in the National Association of Watch Collectors (NAWCC) announcement. The article states that on July 19, 1926, the patent was first assigned to a person named Charles Rodolphe Spillmann, who owned a watch case manufacturing plant in La Chaux-de-Fonds. Five days later, Spillmann transferred the patent to Hans Wilsdorf (interestingly, not directly to Rolex). Five days later, on July 29, Hans Wilsdorf registered the ‘Oyster’ trademark. At this point, the case, crown and name, all elements are in place.
   I believe Spillmann is not a simple middleman who helps Hans Wilsdorf hide his interest in patents. More likely, Spillmann brought the patent to Hans Wilsdorf, explaining to him how to combine the crown and case to design a revolutionary waterproof watch. Although there is no clear evidence, if you look closely at the case back of the 1926 Oyster prototype shown in the picture, you will find a small hammerhead logo at the bottom. This is the logo of the Swiss watch maker. The number inside it is 136, indicating that this case was produced by C. R. Spillmann & Cie of La Chaux-de-Fonds. Almost all early Rolex Oyster watches in gold case were engraved with this mark, indicating that these cases were solely the responsibility of the Spillmann factory.

Inside of screw-down case back

A small hammerhead logo on the underside of the case shows that this case is from C. R. Spillmann & Cie, the number 136 is clearly visible
   The original Oyster case design is very interesting, the movement is not directly connected to the case. The case consists of three separate parts: the middle frame (with lugs), the upper bezel and the back case. Both the top bezel and the back case are screwed in. The movement, dial and hands are carried by an externally threaded metal barrel, with holes at 3 o’clock and bolts at 9 o’clock. The metal barrel is inserted into the case, the pin at 9 o’clock is inserted into the hole reserved in the case, and the crown and the winding stem are assembled to the case through the hole at 3 o’clock. Finally, the upper bezel and the rear bottom cover are rotated and locked.
   At that time, Rolex advertised that waterproof watches did not use cork or leather washers, relying only on metal-to-metal screwing; this statement is true, but to ensure perfect sealing, the watch still used washers in the back case The washer is made of a thin lead sheet, which will deform when tightened to compensate for variations in the surface processing of the back cover.

   The appearance of the case is ‘cushion’ (cushion). Since the 1920s, Rolex has used the ‘cushion’ case until the end of the Second World War. The Oyster has also introduced alternative octagonal cases, but has not been as popular as the ‘cushion’. In less than a decade, the octagonal case has disappeared from the Rolex catalogue, most likely because it looks too old fashioned.

Less popular octagonal case

   Like all Rolex watches of the same period, the movement in the Oyster was supplied by Bill Aegler. This unique movement is called ’10½ Hunter’: 10½ centimeters (23.7 mm) is the diameter of the movement; ‘Hunter’ refers to the design of the watch, which is like a hunter’s pocket watch (with a protective cover) The crown is set at 3 o’clock, as opposed to an open pocket watch with the crown at 12 o’clock.

   The movement is divided into three versions: Prima, Extra Prima and Ultra Prima. All three are 15-stone structures, identified by timing tests after assembly. One of the best performances is Ultra Prima, Prima is not so precise, and Extra Prima is somewhere in between. Watches equipped with the Ultra Prima movement are usually marked with the corresponding text, as shown in the figure below.

Watches with Ultra Prima calibre are marked with corresponding text
   By the mid-1930s, Rolex simplified the complicated three-piece case into two pieces, with the upper bezel integrated into the case, while abandoning the metal barrel that carried the movement. Spillmann seems to have disappeared from the Oyster story, but this is not the case. In the 1960s, we could still see the abbreviation ‘C.R.S.’ in the bottom cover of the Rolex chronograph. This relationship lasted nearly 20 years. Of course, the production of the ‘cushion-shaped’ case is not over. In the late 1930s, Rolex also produced a number of oversized cases for an Italian brand. That’s right, the Italian brand that was not so famous at the time was Panerai.

   In addition to the larger diameter of the watch in the 1940s, the basic design of the Oyster case has always been consistent and stable. Until the 1950s, the new case and crown came out together, and the crown was called ‘Twinlock’. As the name suggests, the crown uses double washers to ensure its watertightness. The initial waterproof depth can reach 50 meters, which is a real breakthrough in seepage prevention of the case.

Oyster prototype with Ultra Prima movement
   In 1953, Rolex also introduced a two-piece case with a rotatable bezel. The first watch model to use this case was Ref 6202 Turn-O-Graph, with an inlay on the bezel and a 60-minute mark. Launched as a water-resistant alternative to the chronograph, the Ref 6202 Turn-O-Graph is unsuccessful in market sales, but it has become the basis for Rolex’s most representative (one) model, the Submariner. In September 1953, the deep-sea submersible of the Swiss explorer Jacques Picard dived 3131.8 meters deep, and the Rolex watch attached to the hull was still working normally. At the Basel International Watch & Jewellery Show in the spring of the following year, the Rolex Submariner watch was officially launched.

   The parallel development of the case and crown has continued for many years, as can be seen in the Sea Dweller in the 1960s and the Deepsea in 2008. In the deep dive watch, Rolex abandoned the two-piece case that had been used for 60 years and returned to the original oyster design. It turns out that the ancient design of the back of the year can also meet the performance needs of the 21st century. Sometimes, going forward may mean going back to the starting point.

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